Along the Way

When you are traveling Maine’s roads, one thing you can count on seeing many of is used book and antique shops.  The drive to Southwest Harborhas its fair share, and I do believe I have stopped at most of them along the way.

Here’s a glimpse of what’s inside.

Much of it is what I’d call plain ole junk shelved from floor to ceiling.

What would you like, a lobster buoy,

a pair of hockey skates and a stick

or maybe an old Apple monitor?  You name it and I’ll find it for you!

As for me, my eyes are always open for crystal or glass bells, a lovely piece of glassware, beautiful old dishes or something quirky hidden and collecting dust.

All this looking does wear me out though, so I just might have to stop in Ellsworth for a bite to eat and drink.  I did have to look twice for Cleonice as it has now partnered with the Maine Grind making both places doubly better.

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Southwest Harbor: A Quick Look

Twice each year, I journey to Southwest Harbor on the southwest side of Mount Desert Island.  In the spring, it’s to take the hubby to pick up his boat; in the fall, it’s to pick him up after he returns Pipe Dreams there for the winter.

Southwest Harbor

To many folks, Southwest Harbor is best known for being home to Hinckley boat builders, known worldwide for incredible workmanship. You can see many of their beautifully designed vessels in the harbor,

and there’s always a new power or sail boat waiting to be launched.

Like many Maine villages, Southwest Harbor takes on new energy in the summer when part-time residents and visitors return.   Most of the shops and eateries can be found on the main street, and there are some places I always visit.

Under the Dogwood

One is Under the Dogwood Tree, a delightful shop with an eclectic inventory.

Since I’m very drawn to upcycled items, I particularly  appreciate these baskets and doormats made from colorful lobster pot lines.  

Little Notch Bakery

For a tempting pastry, sandwich or freshly baked bread, Little Notch Bakery is a must,

Cafe 2

and you can always count on Cafe 2 for a tasty meal.

Sawyer’s Market

My very favorite place in Southwest Harbor is Sawyer’s Market, owned by the Worcester family since 1959 and in business since 1946.  You just wouldn’t believe what you find inside the market’s very unassuming storefront!

Whether you’re shopping for fresh produce or seafood, unusual gourmet items, a great wine, Sawyer’s is likely to have it.  I mean, is there another place where you find chocolate coconut peanut butter!

Should you stay in Southwest Harbor, the historic Claremont Hotel is a charming place from which to take in the sights.  You can explore nearby Acadia National Park, one of the country’s great gifts, or just sit and rock on the front porch.

The coast of Maine is full of unexpected delight, and Southwest Harbor is no exception.

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Here’s the Story

In the three years I have been writing about Maine, many of you have asked how we got from Texas to Maine.  Well, here’s the story and it’s my own fairy tale.

Before we  married, the hubby captained a yawl that raced the Southern Ocean Racing Circuit.  Following a race that ended in Bermuda,  a fella  asked the hubby if he would sail his boat to Castine, Maine.  There was time until the next race, so that opportunity offered a new adventure.

Off the coast of Maine came up one of those thick as pea soup fogs which forced an unexpected time out in Rockland, a couple of hours down the coast from Castine.  When the fog lifted and it became one of those glorious Maine days, the journey was completed and the hubby was blown away by the beauty of the Maine coast which he talked about for years.

Now, fast forward to a year when the hubby agreed to take a whole week off from work and our daughters decided to give up a summer of softball tournaments.  I decided it was a good time to surprise the family with a vacation in Maine.  Great idea, but the only places I had heard of were Kennebunkport, Boothbay Harbor and Bar Harbor.  In none of those places could I find a house to rent at the late date I began my search.

Then, out of the blue I got a phone call from a lady who heard I was looking and had a place in Camden, totally unknown to me.  She described it as a condo which was a real turnoff as I envisioned it as a Houston type high rise, and I had in mind a cozy cabin.  ”Well,” she said, “it’s better than what you have now!”  Right, so I took it.

Thus begins the first of our 22 years visiting Maine, and I am forever grateful for that phone call as it led us to a place  with which we immediately fell in love.  As we drove that first time into Camden, we let out a collective WOW! as it looked like a scene from a photo book of beautiful places.

Our hearts began to beat a little faster when we turned onto Bayview Street and glimpsed the beauty of Camden Harbor backed by the Camden Hills.

And the condo wasn’t a high rise after all.  It was part of a charming group of dwellings right on the harbor.  For the next 10 years we rented in that same location, and each year Maine became more a part of our heart.

Somewhere along the line we, or maybe I, dreamed of living in Maine, and I entertained the fantasy by looking at houses.  The hubby had no interest in one of the beautiful old homes that he felt would require continual maintenance, but that was about all that was available.  Then, one day as we biked the dirt road, we saw a house being built on Rockport Harbor.  It was in a beautiful location and best of all from his point of view, it had a dock.  He commented, knowing it was not a likely possibility, that if I ever found a place like that we might consider a second home.

Three years later, we heard the house was being sold.  We flew up, took a look and a few hours later the place was ours.  You can’t begin to imagine what a departure this purchase was for us because  for all the years of our marriage we had been so sane, making decisions that made sense.  This one made none, but after spending time here, each year adding another week or two so that now we are half time, it makes perfect sense.  I am grateful every day that we stepped outside our box and began an adventure that has brought such joy, not only to us but to family and friends.  So far, it’s been a real happily ever after tale.

That’s my story.  What is yours?

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Second Time Around

  By the time we leave Houston, spring has come and gone, but the season comes late on Maine’s coast so when we arrive late May spring is just beginning.  Except for playing havoc with my allergies, experiencing spring a second time is a delight.

Those first days here trees have barely budded, but after a couple of days of rain followed by sunshine they will sport their innocent green.

Tulips are good for a few more days, and there are other flowers waiting to burst forth as they bow their heads until next year.

Overnight it seems, poppies are everywhere.  I have learned, however, that it is best to leave them on their stems as they do not hold up well after they are cut.

Dianthus line the path along the rock wall

and rhododendron replace azaleas with their clusters of white, pink and fuchsia blooms. 

The first peonies bloom

and are teasers for all the glory that will appear in another week or so.

Bachelor buttons shyly say hello

and then there are these

the names of which I have forgotten.

Maybe you can help.

Yes, spring the second time around is a gift freely given and gladly received, and the good news is that here flowers will be, as my daughter says, brave and outspoken all summer.

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Transitions

Lucky girl that I am, half of my year is spent in Houston and half in Rockport, Maine.  As you might guess, the two environments are very different.  Houston is a big city with lots of people and traffic, terrific restaurants, great shopping, professional sports and incredible visual and performing arts.

Rockport, on the other hand, is a small village on Maine’s midcoast with some 3300 residents.  Its history dates back to 1769 when it was first settled and in 1791 it was incorporated as Camden.  In 1891, there was a split because of a dispute over building a new bridge over the harbor and Rockport, so named because of its rocky terrain, became a separate town.

 In 2008, Forbes put Rockport at the top of its list of America’s prettiest towns in no small part due to its beautiful harbor.

From the 1970′s-1986, Rockport Harbor was home to Andre, a seal who provided much entertainment for onlookers and about whom books have been written and movies made.

Aldemere Farm, responsible for bringing the first Belted Galloway cattle into the U.S., is in Rockport.  From that original herd, many others have spawned and the oreo cows, as they are called, can now be found in many parts of the country.

Rockport is home to CMCA where I am privileged to run the gift shop and meet art interested visitors from all over the country.

The architecture is quite different from Houston where homes tend to be newer and built of brick or stucco.  Here, many date back to the 1800′s and are mostly shingled or clapboard Maine cottages.

Here and there you are likely to see a church converted to an eye catching home.

There is really no comparison between Houston and Rockport.    Both are places I like to be, but I must confess that Rockport with its natural beauty and quieter lifestyle does more to make my heart sing.  I  have good friends here, but they do not replace the long term friends that are in Houston.  Spring and fall I have to transition from one place to another and that requires a certain kind of energy that is sometimes difficult to  call up.  I love life in both places, and there’s no question I appreciate each more because of the time I’m not there.  

Come along now and for the next few months join me for a taste of life in Maine.

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What’s In A Mudroom

Most houses in Maine have a mudroom, a place to hang soggy jackets and leave muddy shoes.  Our mudroom is what you would call multi purpose and just may be the most used room in the house.  Sure, it’s where we leave our wet and dirty things and lace up our boots in winter, but it’s much more.  

The baskets  beneath the bench are for recycling, something we do religiously.

Hanging above the bench is a piece I found at the Union Antique Show several years ago.    Not only does it provide a few more hooks for winter wear, the cubbies are perfect for all those little containers I use for flowers.

There is a sink in the mudroom which is great for rinsing off hands gotten dirty gardening and for arranging flowers.  Storage above and below hold an overflow of bottles and whatever else anyone wants to stick in them.  It’s probably better not to open the bottom cabinet!

Along one wall are floor to ceiling cabinets.  What’s there?  Well, let’s look and see.

There’s the practical stuff like baking supplies, canned goods, cleaning materials, candles

but more than half the space is filled with dishes,

lots and lots of dishes.  I have to confess that dishes and glassware are my absolute weakness and having so much storage has made it very easy to add piece after piece, however, unless something is gotten rid of there’s no where else to put anything.  Do you find yourself having that problem?

Today Alma at The Tablescaper invited her readers to post about where we put it all, so I’m off to see what solutions others have for their collections.  Won’t you join me?

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History Comes Alive

I recently read Widow of the South by Robert Hicks.  It is historical fiction set during the Civil War and revolves around the Battle of Franklin and the makeshift hospital for Confederate soldiers at Carnton Plantation.

Since part of my family now lives in Franklin, Tennessee, on a recent visit I was particularly interested in exploring the plantation and learning more about what actually happened there.

Carnton Plantation back view

While the house is original, the guide was quick to point out that whatever interior description was presented in the book was fabricated because no information on that subject exists.

The interior has been restored to represent the style of the period,

but it does not likely reflect the original decor.

 In any case, the rooms that are open are quite charming.  Keep in mind the plantation was used as a hospital, so whatever stains were on the floor were identified as blood stains which added to the drama of the visit.

Carnton garden

In addition to the main building is a lovely garden and a few still standing outbuildings.

These include a smokehouse and one of the quarters that was used to house slaves.

I was not surprised to see a loom there as most of the household linens of the time were  woven by slaves.  I have such appreciation for the skill it took to create on such primitive equipment.  My loom is light years removed from this.

As a hospital, Carnton was used to treat thousands of Confederate soldiers who were wounded in the carnage that was the Battle of Franklin where nearly 11,000 men from both sides were killed.  Some 1400 of the soldiers treated at Carnton died there and were buried in trenches close to the house.    About a year and a half after the battle, Carrie and John McGavock had the bodies exhumed, placed in individual pine boxes and interred on a site close to the McGavock family cemetery.

Today it is preserved as the McGavock Confederate Cemetery and is a grim reminder of lives so needlessly lost.

The cemetery is arranged by state and each area bears a marker with the name of the state and the number of men from there who were killed.

Carnton Plantation is just part of the surprising amount of history in and around Franklin, and it is beautifully chronicled with historical markers at every turn.  This makes the area a very interesting one to visit, and I can’t wait to go back.

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Chicken Love

These girls do love their chickens.

Where did their chicken love start?  Perhaps  in Provence of all places.  Several years ago we did a house swap, and taking care of chickens was part of the deal.  The girls thought that was great fun and enthusiastically fed them and gathered their eggs.

Last summer, a farm became home to the girls, and they started dreaming about having chickens of their own.  To get them ready, the hubby enrolled them in Chicken Care 101 otherwise known as helping to take care of Julia’s chickens when they were in Maine.

Every day they reported for duty, first letting the chickens out of the pen to roam free for a bit.

While the chickens were out, there was water to be changed.  The girls learned that adding a few drops of vinegar to the fresh water helped control bacteria.

New food was carefully measured and food trays filled.

The girls found out that chickens create a lot of mess and that the pen had to be cleaned every day.  They took this part of the job very seriously and uncomplainingly swept until the pen was perfect.

Once the chores were done, there was time for a little chicken play.  The girls were very surprised to find that some chickens are very social.

Even Mom got into the act

and now on their own farm she and the girls share chicken love.  Now, if those chicks will just start laying eggs……

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Down on the Farm

Now, I’m not a farm girl, but in the last three weeks I’ve been on a dairy farm,

a goat farm

and my daughter’s farm.  It still surprises me that she and her family gave up city life to move to Tennessee country, but the hard work they’ve done in 10 months to get the place spiffed up seems to be agreeing with them.

Last time here, the landscape was wintry and a new fence was being installed.

Now the property is alive with spring color and the fence is newly painted in the area’s color of choice.

Big Anatolian shepherds roam the property keeping  predators away.  After hearing what they can do to a thick shelled armadillo or a coyote, you know it’s best not to be where you don’t belong.

Ducks

and chickens also are home on the farm, and they have had their problems.  A couple of the ducks have been handled a little too roughly by the dogs or carried away by uninvited guests, and some chickens are being lost to an invasive virus.  Nobody said life on a farm was easy!

The daughter is happy to be a farm girl spending time at the barn with the animals,

and the son-in-law loves the outdoor work that requires him to be on his tractor.

You can tell life has changed.  City attire has given way to work clothes

and instead of stylish footwear, boots of some kind are outside every door.

Yep, it’s a life change and a farm is not a sometime thing.  There’s something to do every day, and not all of the work is easy, but for this family the reward is looking out over open spaces and knowing they’ve made a good decision.

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Parting Shots

Foodie Adventure weeks fly by and leave many memories starting with the special places called home for those seven days. This time in the Loire Valley it was Chateau des Grotteaux in the countryside not too far from Blois.

There were spacious and comfortable spaces for the group to gather and relax,

share a meal

or cook together.

No matter where you were in the chateau there were sweet smells of blooming lilac

and lovely views making it seem like you were living in a painting.

Of course, the highlight of the week was the time spent in the kitchen preparing the incredible dinners Chef Michael planned for us. Already, a couple of recipes have appeared here, but I can’t resist sharing another which just happened to be the hubby’s favorite.

Country Style Mushroom Pâté
2 T unsalted butter
1 1/2 c chopped yellow onion
2 c diced white bread, crusts removed
3/4 c heavy cream
3 T port wine
2 eggs
2 T unsalted butter
4 cloves minced garlic
2 lbs mixed mushrooms
2 t pâté spice (5 ground bay leaves, 1 T each ground cloves, white pepper, black pepper, sweet paprika. 2 t each ground nutmeg and ginger, 1 t each dried thyme, ground coriander and basil. Mix all together.)
2 lbs ground pork butt
1/4 c chopped flat leaf parsley
1/8 t ground white pepper
1/2 t kosher salt
Melt butter in large sauté pan. Sauté onions and cook, stirring frequently, until onions start to brown. Remove to large mixing bowl and add bread, cream, port and eggs. Mix to combine.
In sauté pan, add remaining 2 T butter and garlic. Cook for 1 minute. Add diced mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes. Sprinkle with pâté spice and set aside to cool.
Add pork and mushrooms to onion mixture. Mix well.
Butter a 5 c loaf pan, fill with pate mixture and smooth the top. Bake in water bath for one hour. Cool for 5 minutes. Invert the pan over a bowl to drain juices. Release the pâté to serving dish and serve with mustard sauce.

Whole Grain Mustard Sauce
1 large egg yolk
1 t lemon juice
2 t white wine vinegar
3/4 c canola oil
1/4 c whole grain mustard
1 t brown sugar
2 t chopped chives
Whisk egg yolk for 1 minute. Add lemon juice, vinegar and 1 t mustard and whisk for another minute. Add oil in slow stream and whisk vigorously until oil is incorporated. Whisk in remaining mustard, brown sugar and chives.
This recipe makes quite a large batch, so it is you can either cut it in half or make the whole batch and have some left for anther time, that is if there’s any left!

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