Magical and Mysterious

When I am in Maine during the winter, as soon as my eyes open I look to the harbor in the hope of seeing sea smoke, a phenomenon that is both magical and mysterious.  What causes it?  Sea smoke, or arctic steam fog, is a cloud over the sea, which could otherwise be called fog, and is usually formed when very cold air  moves over warmer water.

In nine years of hoping, I’ve not been lucky enough to witness sea smoke on Rockport Harbor first hand, but thanks to my friend and renowned photographer Peter Ralston I have just experienced it from afar. He was kind enough to send these photos taken a few days ago, and with his permission I am sharing them with you so you can enjoy the wonder of sea smoke.

In the distance you can glimpse Indian Island which can be seen in another season here.

If you are familiar with my postings from Maine, you may remember that Indian Island is at the mouth of Rockport Harbor and is the sight that welcomes me home.

And here are the lobster boats, which recently appeared here, shrouded in sea smoke.

How Peter always happens to be in the right place at the right time with his camera amazes me, and for these photos I’m so glad he was.  I’m betting that with his incredible printing skills, these shots will become beautiful prints available from his Rockport gallery.

Sharing at Seasonal Sundays, Watery Wednesday, Outdoor Wednesday

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Down the Back Roads

Maine doesn’t have a lot of freeways.  In fact, there’s just one, I-95, that runs north and south, so when you travel the state it’s likely to be on the back roads.  Generally, they are two lanes, often narrow and bumpy and  lead to places named Union, Hope, Washington, Windsor, Saco, Damariscotta, Newcastle, Castine, Blue Hill and along the way there are lots of surprises.

Let’s journey down some of the back roads and see what’s there.

Liberty Tool is interesting, worthy of a stop.

Inside is much more than tools, and it might take the better part of a day to browse through it all.

The same is true at Elmer’s.

Hmmm, that message comes across loud and clear so we better leave the dog in the car. Don’t you wonder where all this stuff came from and what possible use it could be to anybody?

Inside are some real treasures though it takes a lot of looking to find them.

And here we are on a pretty empty stretch of road and spot an art gallery.  Glad we didn’t pass it by because there’s some really nice work inside.  Funny that it’s called the Downtown Gallery because there’s not much evidence of a downtown!

Getting a little hungry now?  Not too far down the road we spot Lori’s,

a simple cafe with words of wisdom and warning, friendly service and the best fried clams.

And what’s this, John’s Ice Cream in a most unexpected location.

Who can resist the temptation of real homemade ice cream in all these yummy sounding flavors?

And, while we are out, let’s stop in at the Hope Spinnery where we find beautiful hand dyed wool and knitted creations

and on this day friends gathered to share their music.

Aren’t Maine’s back roads a treat?  What is it that draws folks to these scarcely populated places and prompts them to open a business?  Maybe they know that people like us are going to be out exploring and will stop and take a look.  Or maybe there’s another reason which is worth thinking about another time.

I’m glad you came along for the ride.  Do you have places in your area that are fun adventures?  I’d love to hear about them.

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Winding Down

Most summer days I am awakened by the sound of lobster boats leaving the harbor to check their traps.

Later they return with their catch which is unloaded on to waiting trucks that will take them to be shipped to worldwide destinations.

These days are different.  The boats go out later, and when they return the stern is filled with traps that are being hauled for the winter.

They are stacked on piers

or in yards and stand like abstract wire sculptures done in wild colors brightening and warming an increasingly wintry landscape.

So, what will the lobsterman do during the winter months?

Repair nets,

repaint buoys, count the days until he can reset his traps.  It’s the way in the life of men and women who make their living from the sea.

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Taking the Chill Away

The night is chill, the table is set so what is to fill the bowls and our tummies?

I think cioppino, a hearty  and flavorful fish stew that takes advantage of Maine’s wonderfully fresh seafood and takes the chill away. With a name like cioppino, you’d think this was an Italian dish, but it actually originated in San Francisco and is not known in Italy.  I’m betting though that in areas where seafood is plentiful, there is some variation.

There appear to be a number of ways to make fish stew, and this version which I have created seems to satisfy everyone’s tastebuds.  Best of all, the tomato base can be made a day ahead and refrigerated to allow flavors to blend.

Lulu’s Cioppino

 1/4 c. olive oil + 2 T. butter

1 c. finely chopped onion + 1 c. chopped pepper, any color will do

1 t. minced garlic

1 lb. fresh mushrooms cut in half

1 28 oz. can diced tomatoes + 1 6 oz. can tomato paste

1 c. dry white wine

2 8 oz. bottles clam juice

1/4 c. lemon juice

2 T. chopped parsley

1 t. dried oregano

1/2 t. each basil, salat and pepper

1 T. sugar

Heat oil and butter in large Dutch oven.  Ann onion, pepper, garlic and mushrooms.  Cook until onions are limp, about 10 minutes.  Add remaining ingredients, heat to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, 1 hour.  Cool and refrigerate until ready to use.

1/2 hour before serving, reheat tomato mixture  and add 1 1/2 lbs. cubed fish (swordfish, halibut, sea bass, cod, haddock) and cook until fish is flaky, usually 10-15 minutes.  Add   1 lb. medium shrimp (peeled and deveined), 1/2 lb. scallops, 1/2 lb. crabmeat and a dozen mussels.  Cover and simmer over low heat until mussels open, about 10 minutes.

To serve, ladle into bowl and top with a dollop of mayonnaise that has been mixed with curry powder and lime juice.

This makes about 6 hearty servings and requires about an hour to prepare.  All that is needed with it is a  crusty bread and a green salad, one as simple as mixed greens with sea salt and fresh lemon juice.  Your family or guests are going to be very happy with your effort.

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Taking It All In

I never tire of what I see of Maine from the water, and today I paid special attention knowing that it’s the last boat outing of the season.

The destination is North Haven, one of the more than 3,000 islands off the coast and one of the 15 or so that can still claim a year round population.

North Haven has the feeling of having been there for a very long time.  The post office, the American Legion hall, the church have seen generations come and go.

The permanent population is less than 400, but in the summer that number swells considerably with the return of families who’ve had  seasonal homes on North Haven for years.  Getting there can be done only by boat or ferry, and if you take the ferry you don’t want to miss the last one.

This day was a quiet one on the island.  Most of the people from away are gone and residents are getting ready for the oncoming winter.

A shop or two is still open

and the island eatery is serving its last sandwiches and ice cream.  As you can see, the choices are limited!

Lobstermen and women are still at work, and at the end of the day they take time out for a few laughs and easy conversation about the day’s haul.

Leaving the island behind and heading back to Rockport Harbor, I take it all in.  

The Camden Hills are hazy in the distance,

islands are lit by the afternoon sun,

the wind turbines on Vinalhaven sing their song,

the shoreline makes me think of a painting.

Best of all, ahead, Indian Island is welcoming me home.  This is the picture I will see in my mind through the winter months.

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Sauerkraut & Bratwurst

Have you ever been to a German deli, one out in the middle of nowhere?  No you say.  Well, come on, let’s go.

We’re going about 25 minutes from Rockport, traveling on 17 to 220, and it’s a beautiful day for a drive through the country.

Arriving at Morse’s,we find it crowded with people.  Despite its out of the way location, Morse’s is a destination.

This sign gives a hint as to what is inside.

There’s all that and so much more.

Sausages, so many to choose from,

and the meat and cheese section is so tempting that you’ll want to take one of everything away and, of course, the famed sauerkraut is a must.

The baked goods are irresistible

and after we’ve made all our selections there’s still time to go into the cozy restaurant where tantalizing servings of red cabbage, potato pancakes, reuben sandwiches, sausages  are fresh from the kitchen.

Morse’s is for sure a perfect Sunday afternoon outing.  I’m glad you are along.

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Burlap and Dahlias

TJ Maxx in Rockland is the source for most of my shopping in Maine, but  recent computer problems took me to Portland and the Apple store, which just happens to be in the Maine Mall. Whoa, an opportunity for retail therapy!  After buying a couple of new pairs of shoes at Macy’s I drifted toward Pottery Barn to see what was new.

Of course, the displays were heavy with decor for Halloween and fall, and while it was fun to look, I came away with just one item, a burlap table runner, a purchase influenced, I think, by some of my tablescaping blog friends!

The runner immediately went on the dining table, and it needed some color.  Out to the garden to clip a few of those brave and outspoken dahlias which, after trying several containers, ended up in these wonderful antique beer bottles.  How many beers could you drink in something that size?

Surrounded by gourds, the table began taking on a life of its own.

Again the square black Ikea plates were called into duty,  this time serving as chargers for harlequin patterned dinnerware.

If you look closely, you will see that the dishes have a touch of teal,

so these recently acquired old thumbprint glasses in nearly the same color were a perfect addition.  I bought these thinking they would look good in a daughter’s new kitchen, but I like them so much she may never get them!

Without too much ado, the table is once again ready for friends to gather for an evening at home.  Now if Mary or Kathleen or Alycia or Marigene or Marlis or Cherry Kay or Jacquelin or Lynne or any of you would just show up to add your special touches, all would be perfect!

Passing through the dining room later in the day, the sun was shining through adding its own sparkle to everything it touched and making me throw up my hands in childish delight.

What is it that makes your heart sing?

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Perfect at Home

Entertaining is not about perfection; it is about connection.

One of the things I love about my life in Maine is the gathering of friends over shared dinners at home.  Always there is the promise of laughter, stimulating conversation, camaraderie to say nothing of good food.  As often as not, we share in the preparation of the meal, but on this night our hostess did all the heavy lifting and what a meal we had.

The dining table  combined elegance with warmth.

 Surrounded by sparkling silver, the centerpiece was an apple loaded limb freshly cut.

Shades of blue and green were repeated in everything from the placemats to the napkins to the glassware to the dishes.

Speaking of the dishes, they were a real find at the local Goodwill.  Inspired, I went the next day hoping for such a treasure but no such luck!

At this couple’s home, one can always expect the meal to be outrageously good, and this was no exception.

The last of garden tomatoes were used for caprese bursting with flavor.

The main course was a beautifully presented lobster baked in a beurre blanc sauce.  Our host had done the hard work of loosening the tail from its shell so all we had to do was enjoy this mouthwatering delicacy.

Accompanying the lobster, roasted potatoes and a lovely combination of corn and black beans.

As if this were not enough to satisfy any palate, we moved on to dessert which set guests to moaning, not only because it was so good but for what was happening to our collective waistline!  Oh, the dessert? Poached pears topped with ice cream and caramel sauce  and a melt in your mouth brownie.

After this dinner, we satiated guests just wanted to find our way to an empty bed to spend the night dreaming about the comfort of the evening.

 What special times with friends do you most enjoy?

Joining Tuesday’s Tasty Tidbits, Tabletop Tuesday, Tablescape Thursday and Foodie Friday 

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Small Towns, Big Films

If you are a film buff, then midcoast Maine is the place to be this weekend as the Camden International Film Festival highlights the activities.  The streets of Camden and Rockland are crowded, every inn is booked and eateries are humming as people catch a bite to eat between films.   This is the 6th year for the festival, and each year gets better as filmmakers from all over the world submit their creations.  Some films are  premiered, some have been seen in other venues.  

The focus is on documentaries, stories made and told by people who continue to push the boundaries of the genre.  The hard part is deciding which films to see as the subject matter covers a variety of topics ranging from life on Maine’s islands to rock climbing in Poland to a disgruntled preacher to events of the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq to…..Well, you get the picture, the topics are as varied, and you end up picking and choosing based on the subject and the time the film is showing.    Seeing several can be quite a challenge since they are shown in multiple venues which just might mean getting in you car and driving to either Camden or Rockland from whichever place you’re in.  

I’d love to tell you more about the festival, but it’s time to hustle to the next showing.  So, what are you doing this weekend?  

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Over Night it Seems

Over night it seems that day becomes shorter,

sunsets are flecked with intense color,

my garden grows tired

except for the dahlias that, as my daughter would say, are brave and outspoken.

Leaves go from moody green/black to having hints of  color,

blueberry fields change from this

to this,

the bounty of summer

is replaced with the warm colors of pumpkins and gourds.

While I regret the passing of  an all too short summer, I welcome the promise of fall, its colors and smells.

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